Chadar Trek

Today’s agenda includes a very picturesque and thrilling long-drive to Chilling. The roller-coaster ride takes you along the Indus to the village of Nimu, where the Zanskar converges into Indus. After stopping at this confluence point to take in the view, the drive continues and the road begins descending right into the river valley. There are quite a few heart-stopping moments as the vehicle negotiates the steep hairpin bends over snow covered road. Among these mammoth mountains the road goes past Chilling to Tilad Do. To reach the camp-site, you have to cross the frozen Zanskar; and this is when you take your first steps on the Chadar. It takes a while to get a hang of walking on the ice sheet. To get some exercise and keep warm, you can climb up the nearby mountains and get a good look at the frozen river. Sun sets, and the temperature falls with it, and the sleeping bags in the tents look quite inviting.

Today is a long walking session, about 12 km, on the Chadar. After a briefing about the day, and give tips on how to walk on the Chadar. Depending on the weather, the Chadar can assume various forms. It can be a cold and hard surface of slippery ice, or it can have a dusting of snow over it, providing a good grip. The ice can be thick or thin, and its best to keep closely following the guide. At places, it might be necessary to wade through ankle deep water, or climb on the cliffs at the side of the river. Mid way to Gyalpo, hot bowlfuls of soupy food is served for lunch. After passing Shingra Koma, you reach the camp-site for the day at Gyalpo. All that is left to do is to soak in the views, have an early dinner and call it a day.

Today’s walk through the deep ravines of the Zanskar is stunning. The sublime walls of the mountains on either sides of the river keep the sunlight away from the Chadar for most part of the day. There are numerous caves in these mountains, big and small. You will see frozen waterfalls, some higher than the others. One of those waterfalls, miraculously, is not iced-up even in such freezing cold. The rocks below this waterfall are covered with moss, and this is the only greenery you’ll see on this trek. At Tibb, there is a big cave. This cave is the dwelling of all the porters, and they welcome you warm-heartedly in here. Share a cup of butter-tea with them and ask about the not iced up waterfall story!

Today is the most spectacular of all days on this trek. Walking on the river you cross deep gorges and reach a point where Juniper trees are covered with prayer flags. The porters give you a twig of this tree tied with a piece of prayer flag as a badge of good-luck and good-health. A few steps away stands the mother-of-all frozen waterfalls several feet tall and equally wide. You can see dozens of colors in this enormous ice structure as sunlight plays off its surface. The Naerak village lies several feet above the river, a vigorous hour-long trek can take you to the village if you want to see the life of a Zanskari. The camp is set up close to the river.